The Fair Trade Jewelry Conference at the JCK Jewelry Show in Las Vegas
last Monday was so profound for me that it honestly has taken me over a
week to process it. I was familiar with some of the issues discussed
but learned a great many things about the various movements in ethical,
fair trade, fair made and green jewelry and why they should matter to
everyone who gives, receives and enjoys fine jewelry.
While
most people have heard of the controversies regarding blood diamonds
they may not have investigated the issue deeply enough to know that
diamonds from Africa are not universally bad. As Russell Simmons stated in his keynote at the JCK Show, diamonds have done a lot of good in some countries. Botswana earns the bulk of its export revenue
from the diamond trade. But it is important that workers receive a fair
price for their labor, worker health is protected, and steps are taken
to minimize the environmental havoc caused by diamond mining. Right
now, the Kimberley Process
exists to ensure that diamonds are conflict-free. The multi-nation
agreement monitors the $38 billion in rough diamond trade. The question
remains whether this collaborative organization should be doing more to
protect the workers and the environment.
The conference was moderated by Martin Rapaport, the kingpin of diamonds,
who is also deeply interested in fair trade and in jewelry processes
that are of greatest benefit to the miners and producers. Rapaport
showed a video of his trip to Sierra Leone in which he met with the
diamond diggers about what they wanted. The diggers expressed
frustration that they do not receive a fair price from the dealers.
Even when they find a stone they know is good, a dealer will tell them
it is black or cloudy and in that situation the digger has few options
and has to take the price he is offered. For the people of Sierra
Leone, who have no factories they can work in, and a limited tourism
trade, the backbreaking work of searching for diamonds is one of the
few opportunities to make any kind of money.
When it comes to diamonds, Wade Watson of Ruff & Cut
is passionate about both the country and the people of Sierra Leone and
the good diamonds can do there. This beautiful country, which once had
a vibrant tourist trade, is synonymous with blood diamonds. For Watson
it's a personal mission to help lift up this country which is one of
the richest in natural resources but the poorest in so many other ways.
Right now, people are interested in buying stones from Canada because
they are conflict-free but at the conference it was discussed if it
might be "more ethical" to buy diamonds from a place like Sierra Leone
where your purchase could actively help people. It's a complex issue
for those who are concerned about having their purchases not only cause
no harm but do the best possible good.
I first received an education in fair trade gemstones when I heard Eric Braunwart of Columbia Gem Housespeak back in February.
Braunwart's commitment to the careful mining of colored gemstones makes
him a leader in the field. Fair trade stones are closely tracked from
mine to market to ensure that every gem has been handled according to
strict protocols that include environmental protection of the mining
sites as well as fair labor practices at the cutting and jewelry
factories. Braunwart's work has helped to bring schools and improved
conditions to places like Malawi where his company mines for rubies. He
is also introducing lapidary training so that some small locally made
good can be sold to tourists in the area (instead of bringing in goods
from China).
For Columbia Gem House, part of the hurdle has
been getting consumers involved and showing other retailers that this
type of effort does matter to the purchasers of jewelry. He has been
asking retailers to report back on sales of his fair trade gems and has
been making a video of fair trade testimonials.
The fair trade
stones generally cost more than other stones. This is particularly true
for stones that have a lower price point in general. Research has
determined that most people are willing to pay a small premium (5 to
10% percent) for jewelry that is ethical or fair trade. We all want to
be responsible and help others but it also needs to be easy.
The
question of what determines fair trade when it comes to gemstones and
jewelry can be very muddy. While third party systems for certifying
foodstuffs like coffee and chocolate are in place, how to go about
certifying jewelry is a bit less clear. There are two types of fair
trade verification, company verification and product verification but
much as the process that food producers go through to become certified
organic, third party certification can be a long and involved journey,
if it happens at all.
An
important consideration in fair trade jewelry is manufacturing. Marc
Choyt, who owns Reflective Images Celtic Jewelry and also runs the
comprehensive Fair Jewelry website is part of the manufacturing
committee of the Madison Dialogue,
an ongoing conversation on sustainable and fair trade jewelry issues.
Choyt has visited factories in Indonesia and other places and found
that some people may not even be aware that they are using chemicals
that can be toxic or that the conditions are unhealthy. Also the
standards for factories can be different than the standards for the
smaller manufacturers. Choyt's solution is to use a system he calls
FRE, which stands for fair, responsible and ecological. On his jewelry website, he is completely open about his policies and sources, even admitting when he doesn't know where something came from.
One
thing that was stressed over and over was a word I've heard elsewhere
at tech conferences and other sessions on doing business: transparency.
All of the people involved in the businesses at the Fair Trade Jewelry
Conference are committed to doing business in a way that is honest and
open. As was said time and again in the conference it's not a perfect
system right now. At this point it's important not to "let the perfect
get in the way of the good." In some places, such as Madagascar, simply
striving to give artisanal miners a fair deal is all that can be hoped
for right now. What's important on the consumer end is that people keep
the pressure on the companies they do business with by asking questions
on where and how things were made. As long as people remain engaged in
the fair trade process more and more retailers will be interested in
joining this movement.
